Sprinkler over-spray; photo by jellaluna via Creative Commons license

Ever walk by a sprinkler system where everything but the plants are getting irrigated? The sprinkler unintentionally sprays water all over the sidewalk, pavement or building, rather than directing the water to the base of the plants. That’s over-spray, and there are many ways to fix it if you have a sprinkler system.

The first thing to do is to make sure the sprinkler nozzles are clean, properly aligned, and pointed in the right direction. Sprinklers can become misaligned over time as parts vibrate during operation, or get bumped by mowers and foot traffic.

Sometimes, over-spray is just a result of an improperly designed system. Sprinkler heads may be positioned in poor locations or incorrect sprinkler nozzles may be installed.  Variable arc nozzles are available for those spaces with unusual angles of sprinkler coverage, but care must be taken to match the precipitation rates with other sprinklers on the zone to ensure proper distribution uniformity.  Some sprinklers may need to be relocated, or, in some cases, simply removed and capped.

Converting shrub and planting beds to drip irrigation will eliminate over-spray in those areas because it delivers water directly to a plant’s root zone.  Drip irrigation is efficient and will help you save water, and ultimately lower your water bills. In fact, it’s so efficient that many cities that put restrictions on home watering use during droughts often exempt drip irrigation. You’re able to water the plant’s roots, rather than spraying its leaves, foliage and branches, and you’re also able to water the plants more deeply because the drip system releases water more slowly than a sprinkler or spray.

If you have an existing sprinkler system that needs a tune up or you want to convert sprinkler zones to drip, contact us at Ecoyards.

Getting water from the rain barrel

My toddler son loves to dig around in the yard, so I decided to put him to work a few weeks ago when I needed to weed our landscape beds after a winter of neglect. After watching me dig up a few weeds in our raised beds, he grabbed his little metal shovel and began copying me. He put the shovel into the ground, pushed it down with his feet, and then hauled up a few weeds — which he promptly dumped, along with a scoopful of good dirt, into the gravel walkway. Oh, well. At least he was having fun digging. I gave him an empty bucket, and he spent the next 20 minutes filling it with compost.

There are different ways, large and small, to get your toddler or older kids interested in gardening or being outside. Toddlers love to imitate, so you don’t have to have a planned activity to get them excited about gardening. If you pull weeds, ask them to help you put them in the yard waste bin. Find worms together, and show your kids how to handle the insects gently. Look for birds in your trees. Smell different plants in your garden.

Here are some other ideas to get your toddlers out in the garden:

Visit children’s gardens and let your kids explore. The Bradner Gardens Park, Magnuson Children’s Garden, and Good Shepherd Children’s Garden are some of our favorites.

Sign up for a children’s gardening class, if your school doesn’t already offer gardening in the classroom. Seattle Tilth has a 2012 Summer Garden Camp for kids 1-14 in Rainier Beach and North Seattle neighborhoods. One day sessions for young tots including “Don’t Squish that Bug” and “Wiggle, Squiggle, Giggle.” Other classes teach about ladybugs, let your toddlers plant seeds, and explore other creatures.

Keep your kids safe. Supervise young ones when they’re using tools or planting seeds that could be potential choking hazards. Keep fertilizers out of their reach. Avoid using pesticides! If you’re concerned that your soil may have lead or arsenic, get it tested; King County explains how you can do that.

Get your kids good-quality tools that fit small hands, rather than having them wrestle with adult-sized tools. Practice safe handling of those tools, and teach them how to put tools away. My son has a blue metal shovel, a yellow hoe, and a bamboo shrub rake. Each cost between $5 and $10. We bought all three at the West Seattle Junction True Value Hardware store; check your local hardware store. 

Plant a garden, but keep it simple. Pick a few vegetables that are easy to grow, that grow fast, and are visually cool. Sugar snap peas or snow peas come to mind; the seeds are easy to handle for small hands. Radishes and lettuce also are great for the impatient toddler. Plant root vegetables that are fun to dig up, such as potatoes. Plant weird stuff, like purple carrots.

Later in the summer, let toddlers help you harvest tomatoes, carrots and snap peas, or pick raspberries and huckleberries (though teach your kids to only eat foods after asking for permission). Get a small watering can or spray bottle, and let them water your plants. My son likes to fill up the watering can at the rain barrel, and water our potted plants.

Grow seeds indoors. Kidsgardening.org has some great articles that caregivers can do with their young ones, including planting a windowsill herb garden, gardening with creative containers, or garbage-can gardening.

Read books about gardens and bugs. The National Gardening Association came up with this list of gardening books to read with your toddler: Growing Vegetable Soup by Lois Ehlert; Pumpkin Pumpkin by Jeanne Titherington; Tops and Bottoms by Janet Stevens; This is the Sunflower by Lola M. Schaefer; Whose Garden Is It? by Mary Ann Hoberman; The Carrot Seed by Ruth Krauss; The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle; Oliver’s Vegetables by Vivian French; Stone Soup by Marcia Brown; Alison’s Zinnia by Anita Lobel.

Visit farmers markets throughout the year and talk to your kids about what’s fresh at the market and growing in gardens. Visit farms where toddlers can pick their own strawberries, blueberries, pumpkins, and so on.

Check out this National Wildlife Federation guide for other helpful tips.

Find more lessons or activities at the KidsGardening website.

Here are some of our favorite tools of the trade at Ecoyards:

1. Japanese hori-hori digging knife (left). This stainless steel knife is an indispensable tool for any gardener. At about $30, it’s pricier than your standard trowel, but it serves so many purposes that it’s worth it the money. The serrated teeth on one side is great for slicing tough roots, slicing off spent perennials, prying weeds and digging through compacted soil. The wooden handle is sturdy, and fits perfectly in your hand. It also comes with a black sheath that can attach to a belt. We buy ours in West Seattle at the True Value Hardware store. 

2. Felco #2 Pruners. $45 (right). This is hands-down the best pair of pruners you can have. This bypass pruner is one of the most recommended among gardeners for its strength, versatility and comfort. Any good hardware store or garden store will stock these pruners and replacement parts.

3.  Plant tape, about $1-$2 for a 150-foot roll (left). There are a lot of choice out there when it comes to tying plants, including twine, plant tape/ribbon, wire, or velcro. We prefer plant tape because it’s cheap, has many uses and is stretchy, so it doesn’t girdle a tree – unlike wire or twine. We like them for tying vines to trellises, staking tomato plants, mending branches, and supporting weak branches.

4.  Folding pruning saw, between $10-$25. This handy fine-tooth pruning saw folds up and fits in your back pocket for easy access. It works great for light and medium pruning jobs. Get one with an ergonomic fit, and rubberized handle for better grip and comfort.

5. Landscape irrigation and remote, about $300. Ok – this is mostly for professionals only, but let us geek out for a moment and suggest this high-tech gizmo as a must-have for those who spend a lot of time fine tuning irrigation systems. The price, alone, sets it apart from the other items on this list, but it’s no less essential for the serious gardener. This Rainbird remote lets you turn on your sprinkler system from anywhere in your yard; when you need to adjust your sprinkler in one corner of your yard, you can use this remote control to do it rather than having to walk back to the central controller.

Tulips peeking through recent snow

Despite the snow in the Seattle recently, there are still signs of spring everywhere. Forsythia branches are showing their signature yellow color; flowering currants and magnolias are starting to bloom; and the most enjoyable, distinctive sign of spring – tulips – are emerging after a winter spent growing underground.

Tulips are native to central Asia and were first commercially cultivated as early as 1000 AD by the Turks, long before a botanist named Carlos Clusius widely introduced them to the Netherlands during the late 16th century. Tulips are now synonymous with the Netherlands, and regionally, with the Skagit Valley, where visitors can catch thousands of tulips blooming during the spring Tulip Festival (April 1-30, 2012).

Tulips are hardy bulbs and easy to grow in the Seattle area. They can withstand cold snaps without much problem; so no need to worry about the recent snowfall. Plant tulips and other spring-blooming bulbs, such as daffodils, in the fall so they can bloom in the spring. For the showiest blooms, buy the biggest bulbs and buy them as soon as you start seeing them in the garden store (avoid ones with roots growing from them). Tulips require a good dose of sun — about 5 to 6 hours a day — and well-drained soil. Plant them a few inches deeper than the packet instructions tell you, about 10 inches or so.

Ecoyards’ youngest employee with tulips, planted two years ago.

In the Ecoyards garden, our tulips are starting to peak out of the ground (pictured above) in early March. Some people plant tulips yearly for the best blooms and show, but most high-quality tulip bulbs will continue to bloom for three years with good results if you put them in a sunny spot with good drainage. (Check your bulb variety; some very showy blooms are sold as annuals and are only meant to bloom for one season). From year to year, tulips split into smaller bulbs, and eventually those smaller bulbs may not produce a flower. The tulips pictured here were planted about three seasons ago, so we will probably divide the bulbs later this fall or plant new ones.

Now is probably a good time give your bulbs a bit of fertilizer. You should fertilize as foliage (about an inch or two) emerges and again after flowering (there’s no need to fertilize if you’re treating the tulips as an annual, or good for one season). If you want to cut the flowers for indoor use, do it when it’s just past the tight bud stage. Cut it in the morning, put the stems in lots of water and store in a cool area.

Once a tulip has bloomed, remove the dead flower so it doesn’t set seed, which can reduce bulb growth. But resist the urge to pluck the leaves. Let the leaves get good and brown before removing them. The foliage is working hard to photosynthesize nutrients and to recharge the bulb so it can send up a healthy flower stalk next spring. Once the leaves are withered and brown, cut them back and leave the bulbs in the ground for next spring’s bloom.

Northwest native shamrock-like Oxalis oregana; photo by nordique via Creative Commons License

With St. Patrick’s Day approaching, we thought it would be a good time to highlight a beautiful Northwest native plant that resembles a shamrock. Oxalis oregana, or redwood sorrel or Oregon oxalis, is a small herbaceous perennial that blooms from early spring through summer. They’re native to the U.S. West Coast, from British Columbia south to California. In Washington state, you may encounter them as thick, lush carpets of green in coastal forests, such as those in the Olympic National Park.

Oxalis oregana has three shamrock-like heart-shaped leaflets, with a deep green color. The plants, however, most commonly portrayed as shamrocks are: Oxalis acetosella (wood sorrel), Trifolium repens (white clover), or Medicago lupulina (black medic), or Trifolium minus (hop clover).

Our native redwood sorrel spreads by creeping rhizomes (through horizontal rootstalks), and can spread quickly once established. It’s well-suited for partial shade or deep shade areas;   blooms in spring bearing white or pink flowers about an inch wide; and dies back in the winter in cold areas.

When we renovate landscapes, we often find basic errors people make when they install new plants. Planting is one of the most important steps to helping a shrub, tree or other plant grow.

Here are some of the common mistakes we see:

Mistake #1: Planting in poorly-drained soil. This is a kiss of death for many plants, though not all. Some plants can tolerate “wet feet” better than others (such as rhododendrons and azaleas), but most require well-drained and well-aerated soil to get off to a good start. Plants that have been installed in soil that doesn’t drain well will have a hard time surviving in your landscape, no matter how much TLC you give them. How do you know that the soil drains well? The soil should drain quickly, about 1/2 inch or 1 inch of water an hour. If you’ve got hard, compacted clay soil, like many areas of Seattle, it may be better to install the plant in a raised bed or mound. The raised bed or berm should be at least 8 inches high and at least 4-feet wide for a shrub or 8 feet wide for small ornamental trees.

Mistake #2: Digging a hole that’s too shallow, too wide or too deep. When you plant, dig a hole that is only deep enough for the top of the root ball to be at or slightly higher than the soil line. The width of the hole should be two or three times the diameter of the root ball. For large, bare-root, balled, or burlaped plants, make the hole at least one foot wider than the diameter of the root ball.

Flickr photo by cbb4104 via Creative Commons License

Mistake #3: Not taking care of roots before you install in the planting hole. Many plants that you buy at the nursery are grown in containers, and their roots often grow long and in a circle. If you put the plant into the ground without spreading out the roots, its roots will keep growing in a circle, making it harder for nutrients and water to get from the roots to the plant’s leaves and stems. It’ll also make it harder for the plant to anchor itself. Make sure you pull out the roots and spread them. If the roots are fibrous and soft, this can be done easily by crumbling some of the soil. If the plant or tree is root-bound, remove the root ball from the container and slice it through with a sharp knife or pruning shears; from top to bottom at least four different locations. Spread the circling roots out, and make sure they contact some of the backfill soil. Make sure you plant the tree immediately.

Mistake #4: Adding compost, fertilizer, or any organic amendment to fill in your planting hole. Research has show that adding organic amendments in backfill when you plant isn’t beneficial compared to using the native soil you removed. Compost is usually beneficial, but when used in the planting hole it could increase the risk that the shrub, tree or plant will lean or sink. Doing so also will encourage the roots to remain in the planting hole rather than spreading out into the surrounding soil. It’s best to incorporate compost or other organic matter uniformly throughout the plant’s root zone rather than placing it in the planting hole.

Please contact Ecoyards if you’d like help installing new plants in your garden.

hummingbird; photo by lambatofa via Creative Commons License

Each morning, my son runs to the window to see what little creatures are feasting on seeds, nectar and berries in our front yard. Last week, we spotted a couple squirrels, a raccoon traipsing across our neighbor’s front yard, and several birds on the branches of our bare Japanese bloodgood maple). This week, we watched a couple hummingbirds flitter from branch to branch on the white-flowering currant that is getting ready to explode with its clusters of white flowers. Ribes sanguineum is one of our favorite plants in the Seattle landscape because of its spectacular white and red blooms are magnets for birds and butterflies.

Over the years as we have added to and edited our landscape in Seattle, we’ve added more shrubs and plants that can support wildlife. A typical neighborhood can hold more than 25 species of birds and mammals, such as hawks, raccoons, robins, chickadees, and even an occasional coyote, according to the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. You can design your Seattle landscape with wildlife in mind by providing creatures with four basic needs: food, water, shelter, and space. Bees, birds and butterflies feed on flower nectar; squirrels feast on nuts and berries. Have a variety of plants that flower at different times of the year so wildlife have a steady pick of food throughout the seasons. Insects are also an important food source for birds, so develop a high tolerance for bugs and avoid insecticides.

Trees and shrubs, brush piles, groundcovers and plants that grow at different heights provide creatures with various safe places to hide and rest. A good wildlife habitat has many levels of habitat, from the ground on up to the tallest evergreen. Plant groundcovers for bugs and taller trees like western hemlocks for woodpeckers and hawks.

Consider adding a water source for animals, such as a birdbath, stream or other fountain. The Humane Society recommends studying your yard from the viewpoint of an animal seeking shelter and food when you start gardening for wildlife. Learn the habits and tastes of the species you hope to attract, and identify any potential conflicts early enough to head them off before unacceptable damage has been done to your garden.

The National Wildlife Federation also offers tips on how to garden for wildlife and how to certify your landscape as a wildlife habitat. The Audubon Society has a website on Healthy Yards.

Contact Ecoyards if you’d like to redesign your landscape to attract more wildlife.

Shotweed

By far, shotweed is one of the most annoying weeds in Seattle area landscapes. It’s a delicate annual broadleaf that shoots seemingly hundreds of seeds everywhere when you pull or disturb it. The weed also goes by little western bittercress, snapweed, bitterweed, or cardamine hirsuta. Whatever you call it, it’s a menace for Northwest gardeners. This annual weed is most prolific from fall through early spring, but its seeds, which live in soil for a long time, can germinate throughout the growing season. Shotweed loves the cooler gardens and landscapes of the Puget Sound.

Shotweed is part of the mustard family. Its seed pods are called siliques. The plants are small, no taller than about 5-8 inches. It grows pretty little white flowers, and isn’t a bad looking plant. But don’t be fooled. Shotweed can quickly become a huge nuisance in your garden if allowed to go to seed. Annual weed seeds persist in the soil for years and can grow when turned and exposed to light.

The best way to get rid of shotweed is to pull them by hand before they develop seed pods. Generally, annual weeds are easy to pull, especially in loose soil. As with most weeds, pulling them often and early is the best  way to get rid of them. Also, make sure to mulch your beds with a thick layer of compost, bark or other mulch; eliminate bare soil by adding dense ground covers to your landscapes to keep out undesirables; and keep plants growing healthy so they can out-compete weeds. All those practices can help you improve your chances against annual weeds like shotweed.

A propane weed torch also can be an effective tool against shotweed, since you can instantly kill the plant without risking sending seeds flying everywhere. Please follow all safety precautions when using a weed torch, including having a fire extinguisher on hand and wearing proper gear. Weed torches work great for annual weeds, whose roots aren’t as deep or thick as, say, those of a dandelion. They’re also best for sidewalk cracks or gravel beds where you won’t run the risk of torching other plants.

Winter storm Jan. 2012 – photo courtesy of Hector Castro

Rain, snow, ice, wind. The Seattle area got walloped with all of that in January 2012, when a storm toppled trees, broke branches and downed power lines. The storm caused a lot of damage when trees landed on cars, homes and in yards. For big trees and big jobs, homeowners dealing with tree damage should call a certified arborist. Need a referral? PlantAmnesty can help.

For smaller trees, make sure you prune the branches properly. Use a sharp pruning tool and make clean cuts. Contact Ecoyards for help.

Whatever you do, don’t top the trees. The practice of topping, or removing large branches or the tops of trees, can actually create more problems in the future. As PlantAmnesty explains, topping can lead to thick regrowth of suckers or sprouts that make the tree more top-heavy and more likely to catch wind. That makes it more vulnerable to getting blown down in a storm. Selectively thinning trees is a better way to go. This allows wind to pass through the branches.

Sometimes you can’t anticipate what Mother Nature does, but you can take measures to protect your trees from damage during wind, snow and rain storms. Proper tree care can minimize hazards during storms. Trees that are pruned regularly tend to be more resistant to storm and wind damage. Neglected trees are much more likely to fall or shed limbs during storms.

The USDA recently unveiled new plant hardiness zone maps, the guide many gardeners rely on to figure out which plants grow and thrive best in a particular location. The maps give you the historic average annual coldest temperatures for a particular area; nurseries and seed producers often include these zones on plant tags and seed packets to indicate how hardy a plant is. Use this handy online tool to enter your zip code and find out your new zone.

Our Ecoyards’ office in West Seattle is now in zone 8B; that means the average annual coldest temperature for a past 30-year period were between 15 and 20 degrees F. According to the old hardiness maps, our office was located in zone 7B, where the average coldest temperatures were between 5 and 10 degrees. Gardeners will likely be able to plant a few more things that they previously weren’t able to, or at least push their luck a bit more. But by and large, the changes aren’t likely to be too drastic. There are a lot of plants such as aster, green beans, asparagus and peonies grow great in both zones 7 and 8, so we won’t be pulling out plants or rearranging the planting lineup too much. As gardeners in the Northwest know, each garden and landscape can have its own micro-climate based on the amount of sunlight it gets, whether it’s sheltered or exposed, is south-facing and so on. The hardiness maps are just a good “rule of thumb” guide.

The most interesting aspect of the new maps may be that they indicate that temperatures are warming across the U.S. As The Associated Press points out in this article:

The government’s colorful map of planting zones is being updated for a warmer 21st century. The official guide for 80 million gardeners and a staple on seed packets reflects a new reality: The coldest day of the year isn’t as cold as it used to be. So some plants that once seemed too vulnerable to cold can now survive farther north. It’s the first time since 1990 that the U.S. Department of Agriculture has updated the map and much has changed. Nearly entire states, such as Ohio, Nebraska and Texas, are in warmer zones.

The new map relies on weather station data from 1976 to 2005, compared to the 1990 map that used statistics from 1974 to 1986. Experts say that increased accuracy in weather data will be really useful for gardeners and others.