There’s bad news for gardeners this spring, especially those who look forward to Zoo Doo compost.

The Woodland Park Zoo has canceled the sale of Zoo Doo compost because of it contains high levels of an herbicide called clopyralid in the manure.

Dan Corum, of the Zoo, told the Seattle P-I: “We deeply regret that Zoo Doo will not be available for many loyal users.”

As the P-I explains: “Zoo Doo is a composted blend of manures mixed with straw bedding, grass, leaves and wood chips. The manure comes from nonprimate herbivores, such as elephants, hippos, giraffes, zebras and elk.”

The zoo sells about 1 million pounds of this stuff a year.

Zoo officials traced the source of the herbicide to hay, and says it plans to switch to organic hay. It expects to sell the stuff this fall.

Read more from the Seattle PI: http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/local/402355_zoodoo06.html

Proper lawn maintenance and lawn care is one of the best ways to keep your lawn healthy and green, while minimizing weeds. This means assessing the condition of your lawn, and deciding whether de-thatching, aerating and overdressing can help improve its condition.

De-thatching. Thatch is a dense layer of dead and living organic matter that separates grass from the soil surface underneath it. A 1/2-inch layer shouldn’t be a problem, but any thicker than that and thatch can keep air, water and fertilizer from reaching the grass roots. Thatch is usually a mixture of grass stems and roots that accumulates because they’re building up faster than they can break down. Over-watering and applying excessive nitrogen fertilizer can lead to thatch buildup. And contrary to what many people think, leaving grass clippings on the lawn, or “grasscycling,” does not cause thatch buildup. To de-thatch a lawn, Ecoyards will bring in a motorized de-thatcher and remove the thin layer of thatch buildup on your lawn. Then we’ll over-seed (basically add lawn seed) so grass can grow to thicken the lawn in bare areas. 

Aerating. Sometimes your lawn may feel compacted under your foot. That’s because over time, your lawn has become compacted through heavy foot traffic from kids, pets and other activities. Soil compaction essentially squeezes out the pore spaces in the soil that normally holds airs. Roots need oxygen to grow and absorb nutrients and water. When your soil is too compacted, it reduces your lawn’s ability to take in water, nutrients, air and fertilizers. Spring is a great time to aerate your lawn, and Ecoyards provides this service as part of our natural lawn care program. We’ll use a power aerator to remove small plugs of soil from your lawn to improve root development. Left on the lawn, the cores of soil will also help decompose excess thatch layers in the lawn.

Top dressing and over-seeding. After de-thatching or aerating, we often recommend top dressing the lawn with a thin layer of mature compost and planting new grass seed to encourage thicker lawns. Over time, the top dressing benifits the lawn as it builds up the quaility of the soil.  For over-seeding, we use a grass mixture that is blended specifically for the Northwest. Thick lawns discourage weeds by crowding them out.

February is  a tough month for gardeners in the Northwest. We have our share of sunny, blue-sky days, but rain, snow and perpetual dreariness can sometimes make getting out in the yard difficult. February is a good month to get started on some yard chores that will make the rest of the year easier, especially weed pulling.

Here are 8 things you can do in your yard this month.

1. Pull winter weeds. The Ecoyards motto is to pull weeds early and pull them often. That seems to be the only way to keep on top of weeds if you want to take a natural approach to weed control. In February most weeds are babies, so they are much easier to pull.

2. Mulch landscape areas where soil has become bare.

3. Inspect trees and shrubs for damage after storms.

4. Prune evergreen and deciduous shrubs.

5. Cut back or rake out ornamental grasses.

6. Cut back dead fronds on sword ferns.

7. Prune roses when buds appear.

8. Time to conduct major cut back on hedges.

1. Avoid using weed and feed products, which broadcast herbicides on
every inch of your lawn. Instead, choose a “slow-release” or “natural
organic” fertilizer, which gradually releases nutrients into the soil
to prevent runoff.

2. Plant drought-tolerant plants such as rosemary, lavender and sedum
that need little water once established. Efficient water use keeps
water in the rivers, creeks and streams for salmon and other fish,
especially during crucial summer months.

3. Think twice before reaching for herbicides. You can control weeds by
hand-pulling them or by building healthier soil to allow the grass or
plant you have there to out-compete weeds. Pulls weeds when they’re
early and young.

4. Plant a tree, or two or three. Trees catch rain and allows it
evaporate before reaching the ground. This reduces runoff, the main
source of pollution in the Puget Sound. Learn more from the Puget
Sound Partnership: http://www.psp.wa.gov/stormwater.php

5. Build healthy soil, which helps absorbs more runoff and filters out
pollutants. Amend your soil with compost, whether home-made or
purchased from places like Cedar Grove (which recycles most King
County residents yard waste into compost).

6. Mulch garden beds annually with compost, leaves, bark or wood chips
to cut down on weeds and watering.  Mulch also helps prevent erosion.

7. Choose the right plants for the right spot to reduce the need for
excess watering, pruning, and fertilizing. Consider native plants.

8. Water plants deeply but infrequently. This helps grass, trees and
plants grow deep roots and prevent disease. After soaking the roots,
let the top few inches of soil dry before you water it again.

9. Install a few rain barrels. Seattle, King County and other
cities provide discounted rain barrels that you can install near your
downspout. The barrels allow you to catch rainwater into 55-gallon
barrels to water your plants at a later time.

10. Mulch mow, as we do at Ecoyards. Leave grass clippings on your
lawn. It not only saves time and yard waste, but returns water and
nutrients to your lawn.

A telltale sign that you’ve got moles in your yard are the presence of mole hills. Pesky moles form mounds with dirt forced up in a cone shape.   The dirt is usually cloddy, rather than smooth, and the hole won’t be open (gopher mounds have open holes).

Moles are commonly found in western Washington, and can damage yards and plants as they tunnel or push up soil in search of worms and other food. The most effective way to get rid of moles, however, is no longer legal in Washington state, since a law passed in 2000 banned the use of body-gripping traps.  “Common rat and mouse traps” are allowed but aren’t very effective.

According to the Washington State University Cooperative Extension, mole-baits and chemical repellents aren’t very effective either. Here’s more from WSU:

Digging moles out or killing them with a shovel when they are actively mounding can be effective but is time-consuming. Repellent plants, chewing gum, flappin windmills, and other reputed remedies don’t work.

So the short answer is: you may have to learn to live with the pests. But if you must get rid of them, this handout from WSU suggests trying one of the non-body-gripping traps recommended on this site.

When it comes to picking plants for our landscape or for yours, we prefer to go native whenever possible. Trees, shrubs and other plants native to the Northwest — vine maples (right), sword fern, salal, beach strawberry, and Pacific dogwood — simply do better in our climate. In addition to requiring little maintenance, birds and other wildlife in our area have come to rely on these plants over decades and centuries to supply them with food, shelter and other needs.

Native plants create a natural landscape. It has the added benefit of reducing runoff — one of the biggest causes of pollution in Puget Sound — by controlling erosion and curbing flooding.

Sometimes finding native plants is the trickiest part of all. Ecoyards has secured and planted many native trees, shrubs, ground covers and other plants for our customers. We have good relationships with nurseries in the area, and can recommend some of our favorite native plants, such as red flowering currant, evergreen huckleberry, mountain hemlock, trillium, kinnikinnick, and mock orange.

King County’s Native Plant Resources site includes good suggestions on which native plants to put in sunny, shady, wet or  dry conditions. The Washington Native Plant Society also has a list of plants suited for most occasions.

One of the downsides to being a plant-a-holic is not knowing what to do with all those empty plastic nursery pots that stack up over time. Most cities or counties won’t accept plastic nursery pots in its curbside recycling program. But many nurseries do!  (Edit – Feb. 12, 2009 – starting March 30, 2009, city of Seattle residents will be allowed to toss plastic nursery pots in curb-side recycling bins.)

Don’t toss them in the trash. Recycled agricultural plastics are used to make truck bed liners, black plastic landscape supplies, drain pipe, plastic lumber for benches, posts and pilings, pallets, automotive components, tool handles and black trash bags.

If you’re a regular Ecoyards maintenance customer, we’ll pick them up for you at no charge. Just set them out the next time we are scheduled to visit, and we’ll recycle them for you. We try to reuse the nursery pots, where possible, and have teamed up with volunteers from the Longfellow Creek Community Garden and the Longfellow P-Patch, the Community Harvest of Southwest Seattle and the West Seattle Edible Garden Fair.  They plan to reuse the pots for several community gardening projects in West Seattle.

Check the following resources to see which nurseries take what. Make sure they are empty, clean, unbroken nursery pots. For example, West Seattle Nursery, one of Ecoyards’ favorite local retail nurseries, accepts 1-gallon pots or larger. Flowerworld Nursery in Maltby takes pots of all sizes.

The Washington State Nursery & Landscape Association provides a list of about a dozen nurseries in King County that take pots.

Here’s a list put together by Seattle Public Utilities and Resources (PDF), a nonprofit environmental group  works with cities and farmers to recycle agriculture plastic and other items.

If you live in Clark County, click here for a list of nurseries that will recycle pots.

Gus, right, and Max head to the job site

Two of our Ecoyards members have a crazy knack for chewing stuff up — sticks, nursery pots, you name it. One day I came home to find these hellions (culprits pictured at right) had chewed up a lovely indoor fig tree. What if it had been toxic? It got me thinking about what’s in my garden that my dog, if he was good, should avoid.

Here are some poisonous plants for your dogs to avoid, says Cornell University Animal Sciences. The ASPCA also keeps a list of plants toxic to pets. Some like elephant ears and tulips may cause vomiting or excessive drooling. Others like oleander could be deadly. Lest I freak you out, in some cases there may be little risk because your dog may not prefer that plant or chew on/ingest enough to cause severe problems. If that does happen, the ASPCA has a 24-hour Animal Poison Control Center, 888-426-4435.

I’ve listed some toxic plants that are common in Northwest, but you should browse the Cornell database or ASPCA list for more in-depth information.

Plants toxic to dogs and other pets:

Flowering plants: hyacinth, narcissus, daffodil, bleeding heart, foxglove, iris, lily of the valley, autumn crocus.

Vegetables: rhubarb.

Ornamentals: azaleas, daphne, jasmine, laurels, wisteria, yew.

Trees and shrubs: black locust, elderberry, bitter cherry.

If you are coffee-addicted like me and the Ecoyards crew, you probably end up with a lot of coffee grounds left over. You could toss it in with yard waste, but why not add coffee grounds to your compost pile or mulch acid-loving plants?

Mulching helps keep weeds down and retain moisture. Coffee grounds are very acidic, so use it judiciously and only on acid-loving plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons and blueberries. Don’t lay it on too thick, and mix it in with the soil.

Better yet, add coffee grounds to your compost pile and let it help break down other yard waste and turn it into rich organic matter that you can then use in your yard. Composting requires a balance of nitrogen-rich “greens” and carbon-rich “browns.” Coffee grounds are, despite common logic, a “green,” like vegetable waste, fresh leaves, alfalfa pellets, or fresh grass clippings. “Browns” provide carbon and include fallen leaves, newspaper, wood chips or straw. The city of Seattle offers good tips for how to backyard compost.

At Ecoyards, we practice mulch-mowing, or “grasscyling,” when we mow lawns, so we’re always a little short of “greens” to add to our home compost pile. That’s where coffee grounds come in handy.

It may be too early to start planting, but there are plenty of things that can keep you busy in your garden in January.  Here are a couple things to put on your to-do list:

Sharpen your mower blades and tune up your mower (we recommend Aurora Lawnmowers, 7323 Aurora Ave Seattle, WA 98103).

Snowbound in Seattle

While you’re at it, try to stay off soggy or frozen grass to keep it from being compacted.  Be sure to keep wet and soggy leaves from piling up on the lawn as they can smother the grass.

It’s never too early to pull weeds. Get them early, get them young.

Clean up landscape beds. Pull out or dig up annuals after they have been killed by a freeze and cut herbaceous perennials to the ground. With the beds clean and open, it’s a good time to top-dress landscape beds with mulch as long as the ground is not frozen.

Now is a good time to plant or move trees and shrubs.

Selective pruning of evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees can be done at this time of year.  Cut out deadwood, crossing branches, and branches that are damaged by storms.