As you’re getting ready to plant your garden this summer, consider planting an extra row of lettuce, snap peas, broccoli, spinach or other vegetables for hungry families. The White Center Food Bank welcomes all donations of fruits and vegetables.

The food bank’s Donna Pierce says that produce can be extremely expensive for families trying to get by on very little. She says there’s no such thing as too much produce at the food bank.

The White Center Food Bank accepts food donations Monday through Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.. But it’s best to bring fresh produce in either the afternoon before or the morning of distribution days (Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and the third Saturday of each month.

The West Seattle Food Bank also takes donations of fresh produce. You can donate from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday; until 7 p.m. on Wednesdays; and by appointment.

Here are a few photos of plants currently blooming in the Ecoyards garden.

potato plant

Potatoes are one of the easiest plants to grow in the Northwest. Home-grown potatoes also taste so much better than what you buy at the grocery store. You can plant potatoes as early as March (to harvest in the summer and early fall) and typically as late as June (for harvest in late fall). You should be able find seed potatoes at most nurseries, or you can order them through Territorial Seed Co. I’ve had good success with Russian banana fingerlings, blue potatoes, French fingerlings and Yukon gold. I like seed potatoes that are small and can be planted whole; but cutting larger seed potatoes is just as easy (if you do cut, make sure each piece has at least one eye).

Plant potatoes in well-drained soil in a sunny spot in your garden. Avoid planting them in the same spot from year to year to prevent soil-borne diseases. Also try not to plant them in areas where you had planted tomatoes, strawberries or legumes such as peas and beans. When you’re ready to get your potatoes into the ground, dig the soil well. Dig a deep trench and mound the soil on either side. Put the potatoes in cut-size down (if you’ve cut the seed potatoes into pieces). Cover the potatoes with about four inches of soil.

Once your potato plant has emerged about six inches tall, hill soil up around the plants using the soil on the sides of the trench that you dug. Potatoes grow along the stem of the plant. To avoid sunburn (which greens your potatoes and makes them bitter) as well as maximize your yield, keep hilling the plant as it grows taller. Mound the soil up around the plant every two or three weeks. The higher the mound, the more potatoes you’ll likely have. Hilling also helps suppress weeds. To avoid potato scab or cracks or knobs, keep the soil moist and evenly watered throughout the growing season.

Harvest new potatoes when the plant begins to flower. Otherwise, dig up the potatoes about two weeks after the vines die. There’s nothing better than digging your hand into the ground in search of these little treasures.

One of the most frequent questions we get at Ecoyards is how to control weeds organically. The truth is, there’s no easy way to get rid of dandelions, shotweed, knotweed, and other nasties, especially if you don’t want to use herbicides. Our favorite tools are our hands and standard garden tools, like a hori hori, trowel or hoe. You also need a lot of persistence and a little knowledge about the type of weed you’re dealing with.

There are annual weeds that grow, flower, set and die each year, and perennial weeds that live and return for many years. Annual weeds spread only by seed, so the best way to kill them is to pull them before they produce even more seeds – and to continue pulling them several times. The reality is that you’re never going to completely eliminate them, but if you’re persistent you can stay on top of it. Pull them early, when they’re young and before they set seed: tackle winter annual weeds such as common chickweed when they germinate in late summer, and get spring annual weeds such as common lambsquarters when they germinate in the spring. Annual weeds tend to have short roots, so they’re easy to pull or hoe. The downside is that annual weeds produce thousands of seeds, and the seeds tend to persist for a very very long time in soil. Avoid deep hoeing or rototilling, as that can bring up seeds buried in the ground.

Canada thistle

Perennial weeds can spread by seed (dandelion) or through a creeping rooting system (such as Canada thistle or quackgrass). The best way to get rid of perennial weeds is to pull them early, typically in the first several weeks of germination. Get them before they’ve developed an extensive root system that can store energy. When you miss this window, it’s an uphill battle. In this case, you can try to exhaust them to death by depleting their energy; frequent mowing, for example, to cut the tops of dandelions can help exhaust the amount of energy stored below ground. For perennial weeds, you have to dig up the entire root system so rototilling only breaks up the plant and spread the weed; Canada thistle can produce a new plant with a root section as small as a quarter of an inch.

The best way to control weeds is to prevent them in the first place. Get them early, get them often. Try to weed, if possible, on a sunny dry day so that the weeds you pull will dry out and die. We also can’t stress enough the importance of having a good thick layer of mulch, whether bark, compost or a mixture of both, to suppress weeds. Mulches also conserve soil moisture and reduces soil erosion. A good mulch applied annually is about the easiest thing you can do to keep weeds at bay. Mulching and regular monthly maintenance are two ways we control weeds organically for our clients. Contact us to find out more about our maintenance services.

The West Seattle Lions Club is holding its 16th Annual Garden Sale on Friday, April 9 from 5 to 8 p.m. and Saturday, April 10 from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

You’ll find more than 100 dahlia tubers, fuchsias, unique rhododendron, tomato plants and more. The event is at the West Seattle Senior Center, 4217 SW Oregon St, Seattle, WA 98116.

Planting camas attracts the native Western bumblebee

The tiny insects that do the bulk of the work to pollinate trees, shrubs and other plants have been in steady decline across the country. But one Seattle project is trying to change that by creating a continuous pathway for native pollinators, including Western bumblebees, orchard mason bees and butterflies.

The Pollinator Pathway project envisions a mile-long stretch along Columbia Street near downtown Seattle where plants friendly to these insects are planted in the strip between the street and sidewalk. On the bookends of the path are two existing green spaces, one at Seattle University and another at a small park called Nora’s Woods. The organization will provide homeowners along the pathway with simple designs and plant lists to create a garden that invites these native pollinators. The gardens would ultimately be maintained by the homeowners or groups that volunteer to take care of them.

We love the idea behind this project. Ecoyards uses native plants whenever possible to provide habitats for native bees, butterflies and birds. Native plants not only attract these pollinating workhorses, but they often require less maintenance, water, and fertilizer. Over time they’ve adapted to our climate and growing conditions, and native insects have come to rely on them for food, shelter and other needs.

The Polllinator Pathway Web site has a wonderful plant list with photographs of both native and non-native plants that attract bees, birds and butterflies. The native plant list includes trillium, deer fern, sword fern and Oregon grape for shade gardens, and nodding onion, lupine, yarrow and tiger lily for sunny gardens.

I was wandering through the gardens at the Ballard Locks the other week when I caught a whiff of one of the most distinctive fragrances of winter. It smelled exotic and sweet. It was the daphne odora (pictured left), an evergreen shrub that produces tiny pink-purple flowers from February to April. It has lovely green foliage and does well in the Northwest. Daphnes are one of many must-have plants if you’re interested in creating a fragrant garden.

We at Ecoyards try to design Seattle landscapes with fragrance in mind. We often place a few of these plants near the entrance of homes and walkways so that homeowners are sure to get a whiff of the fragrance. Sarcococca ruscifolia, an evergreen shrub (pictured right), is another one of our favorites. It’s sometimes called vanilla plant, or sweet box, because its tiny aromatic white flowers that blooms in winter. This drought-tolerant plant grows well in the shade and is a good addition to any fragrant garden. Other good choices for winter fragrance include witch hazel, and evergreen clematis.

If you’re interested in seeing and smelling more fragrant plants, head to the Ethel L. Dupar Fragrant Garden in South Seattle. A project of the Seattle Lighthouse for the Blind, the garden features over 50 plants with fragrant foliage and flowers including hyacinths, gardenias, scented goldenrod, azara, rosemary, lavender and a variety of herbs. Walking through the garden, you’ll take in a wide variety of scents, including peanut butter, lemon, curry, floral, orange blooms. The garden in accessible to people of all disabilities, including those in wheelchairs. The Lighthouse offers about four tours a months, including one on Tuesday, March 16 and Wednesday, March 17, but you have to call or email to RSVP. 

For years, gardeners had to wait until late spring to get their hands on some of the most prized vegetables starts in Seattle. Now eager gardeners can get a jumpstart on an amazing selection of vegetable starts, perennials and herbs at Seattle Tilth’s Early Spring Edible Plant Sale on March 20. The sale features plants that are proven performers in the Northwest, including ‘green globe’ artichoke, pac choi, fennel, lettuce, beets, cabbage, cauliflower, chard, and eight kinds of broccoli such as the very funky-looking Romanesco (pictured below). I’ve had great success with many of the vegetable plants I’ve bought from Tilth, and count on the wide selection of Tilth tomatoes, melons and other veggies to add variety to my garden.

‘Romanesco’

The event takes place Saturday, March 20 from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Magnuson Park, Hangar 30, 6310 NE 74th Street (off Sandpoint Way NW).

Seattle Tilth is also looking for volunteers to help with the sale. I’ve helped out in the previous two years. If you’re interested in volunteering, sign up online. The organization will also hold its annual May sale on May 1-2 as well as an additional summer veggies sale on May 22. All proceeds go to support the group’s educational programs.

1. This is a good month to prune your roses to remove diseased canes, stimulate growth and encourage the best blooms. Make sure you have good clippers and gloves. A small pruning saw is helpful to cut out old canes.

2. March is also a great time to move trees and shrubs — when the plants are dormant and haven’t leafed. You want to minimize the amount of stress to the trees. Read more from WSU expert Mary Robson on how to transplant trees and shrubs successfully.

3. Consider getting your soil tested for heavy metals, pH, soil texture and organic matter. It’s a good way to help determine and prevent growing problems in your garden. By knowing what’s in your soil, you not only improve the nutritional balance but help reduce fertilizer use. You should get your soil tested every two or three years. Many local Master Gardeners like to send their soil samples to the University of Massachusetts to get them tested. A simple pH test cost about $5, while a general soil test runs about $9.

4. Plant cool-season crops, such as peas and lettuce.

5. Consider how you’ll improve your lawn through an organic care program that reduces the use of water, pesticides and fertilizers. Ecoyards can help you thatch, aerate, top dress or overseed your lawn. Give us a call at 206-770-7879 for a consultation.

At Ecoyards, we try where possible to salvage plants, along with concrete, soil, bricks, pavers and nursery pots for reuse. When we redo landscapes for clients, our clients will sometimes ask us to remove or replace certain trees and shrubs. We always try to find new homes for these plants. We either give them away to friends or plant them in our own yard.

King County has a terrific program that rescues native plants from construction sites to replant later at salmon habitat and wildlife restoration projects around the county. The county salvages the plants from sites slated for development and provides them at a low-cost for revegetation projects throughout the state. Native plants such as the evergreen huckleberry (pictured right) attract native wildlife, require little maintenance and water, helps control erosion and runoff, survive better than ornamental plants and are truly Northwest. At Ecoyards, we use native plants in virtually every project we do. Some of our favorites are evergreen huckleberry, flowering currants, and mountain hemlocks.

PlantAmnesty also has a great “green share” program with an active on-line adopt a plant list. You need to be a PlantAmnesty member to view the list, but anyone may list a plant for adoption.