Winter storm Jan. 2012 - photo courtesy of Hector Castro

Rain, snow, ice, wind. The Seattle area got walloped with all of that in January, when a storm toppled trees, broke branches and downed power lines. The storm caused a lot of damage when trees landed on cars, homes and in yards. For big trees and big jobs, homeowners dealing with tree damage should call a certified arborist. Need a referral? PlantAmnesty can help.

For smaller trees, make sure you prune the branches properly. Use a sharp pruning tool and make clean cuts. Contact Ecoyards for help.

Whatever you do, don’t top the trees. The practice of topping _ or removing large branches or the tops of trees _ can actually create more problems in the future. As PlantAmnesty explains, topping can lead to thick regrowth of suckers or sprouts that make the tree more top-heavy and more likely to catch wind. That makes it more vulnerable to getting blown down in a storm. Selectively thinning trees is a better way to go. This allows wind to pass through the branches.

Sometimes you can’t anticipate what Mother Nature does, but you can take measures to protect your trees from damage during wind, snow and rain storms. Proper tree care can minimize hazards during storms. Trees that are pruned regularly tend to be more resistant to storm and wind damage. Neglected trees are much more likely to fall or shed limbs during storms.

Our Ecoyards’ office in West Seattle is now in zone 8B; that means the average annual coldest temperature for a past 30-year period were between 15 and 20 degrees F. According to the old hardiness maps, our office was located in zone 7B, where the average coldest temperatures were between 5 and 10 degrees. Gardeners will likely be able to plant a few more things that they previously weren’t able to, or at least push their luck a bit more. But by and large, the changes aren’t likely to be too drastic. There are a lot of plants such as aster, green beans, asparagus and peonies grow great in both zones 7 and 8, so we won’t be pulling out plants or rearranging the planting lineup too much. As gardeners in the Northwest know, each garden and landscape can have its own micro-climate based on the amount of sunlight it gets, whether it’s sheltered or exposed, is south-facing and so on. The hardiness maps are just a good “rule of thumb” guide.

The most interesting aspect of the new maps may be that they indicate that temperatures are warming across the U.S. As The Associated Press points out in this article:

The government’s colorful map of planting zones is being updated for a warmer 21st century. The official guide for 80 million gardeners and a staple on seed packets reflects a new reality: The coldest day of the year isn’t as cold as it used to be. So some plants that once seemed too vulnerable to cold can now survive farther north. It’s the first time since 1990 that the U.S. Department of Agriculture has updated the map and much has changed. Nearly entire states, such as Ohio, Nebraska and Texas, are in warmer zones.

The new map relies on weather station data from 1976 to 2005, compared to the 1990 map that used statistics from 1974 to 1986. Experts say that increased accuracy in weather data will be really useful for gardeners and others.

To get his certification, Andy underwent an exhaustive written examination that tested his knowledge, skills and theory in all aspects of working in the landscape industry. He had to demonstrate mastery of seven topics covering leadership and corporate citizenship; production operations/horticulture; sales and marketing; strategic planning; human resources; risk, law, and contracts; and corporate financial management. The program requires that he maintains certification through mandatory continuing education.

For our customers, it means you can expect the same high quality and professionalism that you’ve come to expect from Ecoyards. Andy’s certification, however, means he’s taken the extra step to validate his skills and knowledge in the industry.

For more information, visit landscapenetwork.org.

The Ecoyards crew often sees a lot of low head drainage issues in Seattle landscapes, which tend to be hilly or sloped. When clients approach us with this problem, we install a simple device called an anti-drain valve, or check valve, at the sprinkler head. These valves prevent the water from draining out of pipes through the lowest sprinklers. On new sprinkler system installations, we use sprinkler heads with built in check valve to prevent this problem. The devices close and holds the water in the pipes when the sprinkler system is off.

Contact us for help dealing with the problem of low head drainage.

[nggallery id=24]

Roman Cobblestone paver patio, West Seattle

Ecoyards is now certified through Techniseal’s Certified Applicator Program. This program focuses on specialized cleaning, sealing and joint stabilization of paver patios. We feel this certification is important because Seattle’s wet weather can be tough on pavers.  Common problems in our area include the following:

• Erosion problems with joint stabilization sands.
• Organic build-up on pavers (moss, algae, etc.).
• Excess moisture can contribute to efflorescence, which is a naturally occurring phenomenon that occurs with leaching of salts and other minerals that are deposited on the surface when water evaporates.
• Other problems not necessarily specific to our climate include oil and grease stains.

Techniseal is an industry leader in advanced care and maintenance products for pavers, retaining wall products, slabs and natural stones. Whether it is to protect and preserve the appearance of new pavers or to restore older surfaces and enhance their value, Techniseal has a full range of products for the treatment and protection of hardscapes.  Some of the products that Ecoyards uses from Techniseal are described below.

Polymeric Sand –

Polymeric jointing sand is a mix of sand and binder, specially formulated for filling joints when installing pavers, slabs or natural stones. The sand is applied dry and is activated with a light watering.  It starts to set a few minutes after wetting, and quickly becomes resistant to erosion due to water (rain, splashes, sprinklers, etc.). Once it’s completely cured, polymeric sand provides the following benefits:

• Inhibits weed growth.
• Deters ants and other insects.
• Eliminates joint erosion caused by rain, power washing, and wind.
• Turns flexible when wet, which allows the sand to follow slight movement of the pavers.

Cleaning Products –

Concrete pavers are low-maintenance and provide long-lasting beauty.  However, like concrete slabs, pavers are not impervious to oil and other substances that can stain the pavers and become difficult to remove. Treatment for pavers is generally carried out in three steps:

1. Use specific cleaners to target stains such as oil, grease, rust, paint, or tire stains, or any buildup organic debris.
2. Priming the surface with a paver primer / efflorescence cleaner.
3. Protecting the surface with an appropriate protector (see below).

Protectors –

Protectors are transparent resins that protect pavers and slabs made of concrete and natural stone. Protectors form a micro-porous layer that lets water vapors out but keeps out contaminates.  Protectors come in a variety of options that enhance the appearance of pavers.  Homeowners can choose from a “wet look” or a “natural look.”  Various finishes include a glossy finish or a matte finish.

Call or email us today if you need help with cleaning and protecting your paver patio, driveway or walkway.

Because of their delicate appearance, Japanese maples may seem difficult to care for. In truth, they don’t need much — just well-drained moist soil and some protection from afternoon sun (though some varieties will tolerate full sun). These are hardy plants that do well in containers, if given water during the summer drought months. Most varieties grow well in the Northwest without much fertilizers. If you do fertilize, go easy on nitrogen fertilizers which stimulate growth and makes pruning more of a challenge.

To some, pruning Japanese maples can seem an art form. But really, it doesn’t take much expertise – only a good pair of pruning shears and some patience. Some experts say to avoid pruning maples in the winter when cuts on the trees are more likely cause it to ooze sap. We follow the advice of Cass Turnbull, with Seattle-based PlantAmnesty, widely considered the pruning expert in the Northwest. (Her pruning guide, by the way, is one of the books all gardeners should have on hand). Turnbull says any time is a good time for selective pruning of Japanese maples, but these trees are most easily pruned in the winter and summer. In an excellent article published in Fine Gardening, she writes:

With the leaves out of the way in winter, it is easy to see the branch structure and, in turn, make the right cuts. In summer, however, you can judge the right amount of thinning needed to see the tree’s bones. Summer pruning also stimulates less plant growth than winter pruning, so you can get away with a little more and the tree will stay thinned out longer.

Turnbull’s advice for pruning maples involves a lot of math and fractions, but they’re good rules to keep in mind: don’t take off more than 1/5 of the maple’s crown; don’t prune any branch that is more than half the diameter of the parent stem; don’t remove more than 1/4 of leaves on a given branch, since the leaves provide the plant with nutrients.

As with most pruning jobs, start by removing dead branches, branches that have criss-crossed, branches that are too vertical or horizontal, or those that touch the ground or crowd into other plants or hardscape. You want to be able to see between overlapping branch layers. Turnbull says if you plan to remove the lowest branches of your tree, take out only a few each time otherwise you’ll end up stressing out the plant. If you take one limb out, don’t take the one either directly above it or directly opposite in the same year. You often see Japanese maples pruned into an umbrella or mushroom shape, or not pruned at all so that they resemble a tumbleweed. There’s nothing delicate or pretty in this. Don’t try to hack off the top of the tree, otherwise, you’ll get lots of tiny branches that look like a mess.

Mosses are opportunistic, thriving in just about any location where there is access to nutrients and moisture. Mosses spread in a number of ways, but they depend on moisture to reproduce, according to Oregon State University. Some mosses are extremely absorbent and are able to take up nutrients from water that flows over them (for example, under a shady tree where it’s wet and moist). Other mosses take up nutrients directly from soil (i.e. bare patch in your lawn) or substrate on which they are growing (i.e. cedar shake or composite roofs). So it’s no surprise that mosses take hold on our sidewalks, rooftops, driveways, trees, and in our gardens.

Moss in lawns
Many people view moss in lawns as a problem. With the exception of rooftops, mosses don’t necessarily cause damage. Moss doesn’t kill your grass. Moss in your lawn is usually symptom of a stressed lawn. Most likely, you’ve got poor drainage, excessive shade, poor fertility or compacted soil. Moss grows because these conditions aren’t idea for turf. Unless you address these underlying problems, moss is likely to return. Consider improving soil conditions, or planting something other than grass in that area. Some good substitutes for grass in areas where mosses thrive include blue-star creeper, beach strawberry (a Northwest native) and sweet woodruff.

beach strawberry

If you’re determined to get the moss out, there are both physical and chemical controls. Moss can be killed with a number of products containing ferrous sulfate, ferrous ammonium sulfate, including Moss-Out and lawn fertilizers that contain some type of moss control. According to the Washington State University Extension, none of these materials pose serious threats to the environment; iron and sulfur are essential nutrients for grasses and tend to improve their color. Using chemical controls such as Moss-Out can be quick, easy and relatively cheap. But they won’t actually fix the problem in the long run. Why? You can kill the moss, leaving bare dirt. Since the conditions weren’t great for grass in the first place, moss will continue to grow and invade that particular area of your lawn.

To fix the underlying problems that promote moss growth: improve soil conditions by aerating or amending the soil with compost; trim tree limbs or shrubs that shade out portions of your lawn; plant shade-tolerant grass seed or ground covers; improve grass growth by mowing at the right height and cutting off no more than one-third of the blade at a time. For areas where drainage is a problem, you may also consider installing a French drain or trench to prevent water from pooling up in certain areas of your property.

Moss on rooftops
Moss on rooftops can damage shingles, cause water leaks and other problems. Cedar shake and composition roofs are more vulnerable to moss problems than metal roofs (remember how moss takes up moisture and nutrients?) Again, there are chemicals you can use to get moss off of rooftops. The Washington Toxics Coalition has this handy fact sheet with suggestions on how to prevent moss on your roof:

• Keep tree limbs from touching your house or roof;
• Trim overhanging branches to reduce shade and falling leaves;
• Keep your roof clean;
• Sweep off pine needles, small branches, leaves, which are breeding grounds for moss;
• Use a garden blower or a broom; don’t pressure wash composition roofs because it’s the quickest way to reduce the life of your roof;
• Look out for early signs of moss growth, indication by green or black discoloration. Spot treat with moss-killing soap;
• Consider mounting zinc strips along your roof peaks or beneath shingles.

If you do use chemical controls, the Toxics Coalition recommends soap-based products over acid-based ones. It lists some of the least-toxic moss-killing products: Safer Moss & Algae Killer and Surface Cleaner II; Bayer Advanced 2-in-1 Moss & Algae Killer; Worry Free Moss & Algae Control; St. Gabriel Laboratories Moss Killer. The group recommends that you avoid products containing zinc sulfates or copper sulfates because these chemicals are not biodegradable. Also, the group says, be sure that rinse water does not run off the roof or street and directly into a body of water.

Thank goodness for advances in technology. My dad was trying to be efficient with his water use — i.e., watering in the morning so as not to lose too much to evaporation; avoiding excessive run-off by not watering too much — but smart irrigation technology has made the whole process so much easier. Much like smart technology that has allowed us to set and control the thermostats in our homes, smart irrigation technology allows us to set how often and how much we water our lawns or landscape beds.

Traditional timers allow you to set a sprinkler system to turn on and off when you want. Smart irrigation technology senses weather changes and adjusts the irrigation accordingly. If it rains, it stops watering. (How many times have you seen sprinkler systems running when it’s raining out? This would certainly put an end to that.) If it’s hotter or the soil is drier than usual, the controller will increase watering. The controllers do all the work, and they are a much more efficient and sophisticated way to reduce outdoor water use. Studies show that weather-based irrigation technology help reduce outdoor water use anywhere from 15 to 30 percent, depending on the type of controller and where it was used. One study involving Denver, Colo. and two locations in California found that average individual homes save between 7 and 25 percent in water. If you’re interested in reading more, the U.S. Bureau of Interior did a literature review of studies involving smart controllers.

Many cities such as Seattle offer rebates for households that install smart irrigation controllers. In Seattle, the rebates range from $50 to $500, depending on what you install and whether it is on a new or existing sprinkler system. A smart controller on a new sprinkler system can net you rebates of between $225 and $375. You have to submit your rebate application within 90 days of installation. Click here to read about an irrigation project we completed in North Seattle using the latest in smart irrigation technology, which qualified the homeowner for a $480 rebate from Seattle Public Utilities.

Rotating spray-head sprinkler nozzles are also a new innovation in irrigation technology (shown above in top photo). They apply water more slowly and evenly than conventional sprinkler nozzles. The nozzles shoot multi-trajectory, rotating streams that apply water more uniformly. The water that shoots out of these rotating nozzles is less likely to mists and more resistant to wind. Applying water slowly allows soil to absorb it without running off into the sidewalks and streets.

Check out this city of Seattle brochure for more information about how to water wisely while keeping your landscape healthy and beautiful.

On your property, make sure you keep your gutters and downspouts clear. Check your gutters regularly, and rake up leaves, debris and other litter that clog up the storm drains; and try to avoid sweeping leaves and other debris into the streets. Make sure you that your downspout directs water away from your house and foundation (and not to your neighbor’s property or down a steep hill). Watch how stormwater drains on hills or slopes near your home and note where runoff water converges. Check for signs of soil movement, such as cracks in the soil or under sidewalks and leaning trees. In Seattle, the city advises you to call 9-1-1 if a landslide damages your property and you have immediate fears for your safety. Otherwise, call Seattle Public Utilities for drainage complaints and maintenance requests related to storm drain or wastewater facilities: 206-386-1800. In Burien, call the Public Works Department at 206-248-5521 or 206-391-1620 on weekends and after hours.

The city of Seattle has this handout on how to prevent erosion and landslides. After an intense storm, the city advises you to inspect your property for evidence of surface water erosion. Check the flow from downspouts, roof drains and drainage ditches on your property. City officials say to check for concentrated or heavy surface flows coming on to your property from other areas. Check the ground at the bottom and top of a steep slope.

There are a lot of things you can do to prevent erosion and landslides. One way, the city notes, is to improve drainage on your property by collecting and directing water from your roof, patios and driveways into catch basins, or to confine water in a drainpipe that flows into a holding pond, a dry well, or a drainage ditch. Rain gardens are another way to improve drainage on your property.

Often times, storms also can damage trees. I’m certain this week’s blustery winds and heavy rains will take a toll on numerous trees in the Puget Sound. If your tree is damaged, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a lost cause. Often a tree that appears to be heavily hit may only need careful pruning. If the damage is minor and you can reach the lower limbs without a problem, you can consider pruning the tree yourself. If the work is out of reach, hire a certified arborist to do the work. Never try to remove branches that are close to, or touch, electricity wires. Report those problems to your electrical utility.